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...we left feeling that the food, although good, doesn't quite live up to all the worshipful rigmarole that surrounds it.
And so it is, this cooking in which Darroze infuses imagination, flair and absolute mastery of classical French technique with those self-consciously eclectic touches86
This dish exemplified the arrogance-cum-colonial mentality of the French kitchen that regards all other culinary traditions as lesser, and therefore to be played with in any way they see fit. It was a clumsy, nasty plate of food.81
Flavours throughout are gutsy and vivid, those of Darroze's home turf, Landes in France's gastronomic south-western heartland90
...we left feeling that the food, although good, doesn't quite live up to all the worshipful rigmarole that surrounds it.82